Prix de l'Arc de Triomphe: Bucket List!

                                     Treve, second time winner of Prix del'Arc de Triomphe

If you say to a racing fan, "I'm going to the Arc de Triompthe" they assume you mean the horse race and not the monument. The biggest horse race in France, The Prix de l'Arc de Triomphe is one of the top ten grade one races in the world and the best grass race on the planet.  The trophy is a not too small silver replica of the actual Arc de Triomphe, ordered by Napoleon to honor his soldiers.

French Cavalry Band Parade before the running of the Arc

Attending the Acr is something I've dreamed about all my life and a priority on my bucket list.  This year has been good to me, life is a race track and I started off at opening night of the World Cup at Meyden, Dubai. With still a few big ones left to finish out the season I've been to the Belmont Stakes, New York, the Travers Stakes, Saratoga, the trots at Hippodrome de la Cote d'Azur in Nice, thoroughbred racing at Saint Cloud Paris, camel races in Dubai, dog races in West Palm Beach, Quarter Horses at Los Alamitos, California and now the famous Arc at Longchamp, Paris.  Then, I just had to stop by Marseille-Vivaux in Marseille to collect on a winning ticket from Arc weekend; a small but pretty track set looking out at the mountains. It might be time for me to learn French, at least enough to translate "couple order" to exacta box, so I don't throw away good tickets.

While I picked a number of winners they do like objections at Longchamp and my horses kept getting put back in the field.  Cirrus Des Aigles was placed 5th after winning so even my exacta was gone and another winner was taken down and placed 3rd, bye-bye exacta again.  It was worse than a Monday at Parx with all the frivolous protests but they are very strict and uphold any interference claims taking forever to resolve them. In the instance of Cirrus Des Aigles they presented the trophy, blanketed the horse with the burgundy and gold trim rug and then took her down.  She was the favorite and had won her last 3 starts, so had Fractional, the eventual winner, but it hurt a lot of fans, especially her devoted groom who kissed her in the parade ring.  And, only in France do the grooms wear fascinators in their hair and bustiers to lead the horses around; you have to love it, that's style.

Cirrus Des Aigles

Fractional outside of Cirrus Des Aigles

The reason they have so many claims of foul is because the finish post is all the way at the very end of the home straight right before the bend and horses are being encouraged to fire while preparing to turn.  It's natural for them to want to come over to the inside but it was Cirrus Des Aigles who was disqualified.  They also race clockwise at Longchamp which was difficult for me because it was my first encounter that way.  At Saint Cloud they raced anti-clockwise.

I stayed in the little town of Suresnes just across the river from Longchamp and walked to the track through a beautiful park.  When I finally stepped through the looking glass I was Alice in Wonderland fighting back tears of joy, I couldn't believe I was really there.  The weekend was sponsored by Qatar and there where white tents and Arab men in traditional dress, and women (mostly French in costume) in a huge display of Arab culture.  Perfume from burning Bakhoor wafted on the air above live performers and Arabic music.

The grandstand was so enormous I couldn't even glimpse the track and thought for a horrible moment that my cheap ticket meant I wouldn't get trackside; like at the Preakness where I was stuck watching everything on a monitor because  my seat was on the third floor behind glass.  But Longchamp is well able to cope with large crowds and nothing was a big deal except for winning.  They do go on with a lot of pomp and ceremony, all of which takes place behind the grandstand in the parade ring where the winners' circle is.  A large amphitheater that surrounds the winners' circle and paddock gives everyone great close up viewing of the horses and you don't have to climb over picnickers like you do at Saratoga. The atmosphere was healthier than an American track as most of the spectators were true racing fans there for the horses and not the party, many came from England, Ireland, German, Japan and Arab countries.

Paddock and Winners' Circle

I was a bit surprised once in Paris when I said I was there for the Arc I had to explain, "you know, the horse race?"  It was Fashion Week and there was also a motor show on.  My hotel was reasonable, easy to book and town, quiet.  A fabulous inexpensive restaurant I ate in both Friday and Saturday night had been jammed on Saturday but closed on Sunday after the races like many others.  It was amazing, one of the biggest horse races in the world and no craziness.  To the second time winner, Treve's connections, it was a huge deal. After the presentation a horse drawn carriage with black Frisians, and one with all white horses, took them from the winner's circle out onto the main track for a lap of honor.

Treve, second time winner of the Prix de l'Arc de Triomphe.

The Prix de l'Arc de Triomphe might have been back at the beginning of the month on October 5th but since it  was one of my top five bucket list things I couldn't leave it off the blog.  Not all my great racing experiences make it such as Hippodrome de la Cote d'Azur, a night at the harness racing last trip, or the recent quarter horse racing I've become intrigued  with at Los Alamitos, California.  The hippodrome near Nice is one I have wanted to visit for about 28 years and would probable have ended up going there to work had I not stayed in the US in 1992.  I considered Los Alamitos at the time as well since I started out on a ranch north of Temecula.

Quarter Horse Los Alamitos, CA

If it runs I follow and I have a great admiration for trotters and pacers, they are tough horses. Quarter horses, well  "I love big butts" and they are so flaming fast.

Trotter Race in Nice, Fr

It might interest everyone to know that on both days of the Prix de l'Arc at Longchamp there were Arabian races too.  Yes, for all those thoroughbred snobs, the, most beautiful equine racehorse breed had their own, Qatar Arabian World Cup on Arc day.  Handicapping Arabians, Quarter horses, trotters, thoroughbreds or even Appaloosas is basically the same. There are no fractions in the racing form in Europe so it is just assessing past performances and what they physically look like depending on the race distance, in any language.  I did rather well, the simplification eliminates one's over analyzing, but racing bodies are trying to bring fractional times to the rest of the world.  Most of the English players got the free French form sheet at the gate and bought the British Racing Post, an excellent publication.  I didn't even bother to buy a program. The Racing Post, gave the horse's rating in a number which is not a speed figure but based on wins, it was very accurate, Treve the Arc winner, and Taghrooda 3rd,  both had 139 ratings the highest in the race.  The only other horse with 139 was Just A Way from Japan, who got some of my money.  The Japanese fans were so inspiring I hoped it might be their year.

 

DJAINKA DES FORGES
Arabian World Cup Winner

I am waiting for the day when Arabians and Quarter horses are afforded the same prestigious respect as thoroughbreds by everyone.  I think people are afraid to handicap them simply because they are unfamiliar with the breed type and muscle tone. Colin Hayes, the Australian trainer used to always say the best looking horse on the day is most likely going to be the winner, by that he meant the fittest horse, which is your best rule of thumb.

 ARABIANS

The Arc was a highlight of my life, right up there with Meyden, Newmarket, the Kentucky Derby and the Breeders' Cup. What's left?  Royal Ascot (England), Chantilly (France), the Japan Cup, the Melbourne Cup, the Grand National, and the Irish Derby at the Curragh; it's good to have goals.

Photos by Annie Wade