Romantic Fascination with Arabian Horses: Riding in Dubai

Street Statue Dubai Creek

Bedouins called the first Arabian horse "Drinker of the Wind" and therein started the romantic legend. Arabians have been depicted as almost mythical creatures in paintings, stories and poems for centuries. The breed believed to be the foundation stock for all hotblooded types in the world made their way to distant shores mostly by way of war.  Renowned for his willingness to please humans and his small but dense skeletal strength the Arabian is valued today as an endurance, or long distance racehorse.  Ironically the finest qualities maybe his undoing as he is valued largely by those participating in one of the toughest of sports.

The Arabian with all his fiery spirit, courage and high carriage is not as popular as he once was in all equitation.  When I was learning to ride I was always told, 'it's not the horse's fault it's the rider's' and sadly I see where a much more agreeable natured steed has taken over the world of the performance horse, the warmblood.  They are wonderful and I like to watch them with their seductive toplines and steady gates bowing to the stillness of perfect riders, but they weren't around when I was growing up.  My first pony was a spirited, stubborn Welsh Mountain Pony with a mind of her own and a good pig root in her.   Then came the Anglo-Arabs, crossbreeds that are probably responsible for destroying the reputation of the trustworthy and reliable purebred Arab.  I believe the Arabian blood should never be mixed with any other horse because they are not of the same heart.  The thoroughbred is a good example having inherited most of the nutty traits and not enough brain.  Horses are great but how many can you ask to share your tent at night? The Bedouins knew what they were doing and from the end of that time the horses' journey has been pretty messed up.  There are more horse wackos out there than ever before. The Arabian needs understanding more than training but everything today is training, training and trainers because it's money, money and more money, and everyone wants a big horse.

An Arabian 

For my desert experience it had to be an Arabian which I didn't think would be an unusual request in an Arab country.  The travel brochures and websites all claimed to have exotic Arabians which I discovered turned out to be mostly Argentinian Criollos; an obliging, well mannered  horse that is tolerant and able to adjust to his rider's ability.  Once sort after as talented polo ponies this stock-horse type is sealing his fate as a safe trail hack all over the world and deserves much better.  None of the places I called had a purebred Arabian and I would have to settle for an Anglo Arab, unbelievable.  

My brother, Paul, had the dirtiest, meanest, fastest grey Anglo Arab pony jumper when we were kids. Shazar, liked to chase people out of his paddock.  He was a black skinned, smelly grey covered in scares with an attitude he had earned, and loved nothing more than to roll in mud.  Fearlessness was his fortitude and having come from a station I think he must have been crossed with a Brumby (wild horse).  He could go like the wind and tackled his fences at an angle you never see today, winning many pony jumper competitions.  When you where on his back he never stood still, weight in the saddle for him meant go.  Paul, soon reached an age where he was more interested in cars and girls that the show circuit and stuffy people. He said if I could ride his horses I could have them; and being raised in Australia with three older brothers who afforded a little sister the same status as the family cat, I said with hands on hips and a screwed up face: "I can do anything you can do better."  His Australian stock-horse, appropriately named Bucky, and his prized pony jumper became my challenges.  Neither horse thought of me as a threat because I was too small to get a bridle on them without standing on a bucket and they were both bad when it came to gearing up. They taught me persistence.  I have never met a horse I couldn't learn from.

Shazar

Entrance of the DPEC

When I arrived at the very upscale Dubai Polo and Equestrian Club that had and endurance and a front desk with uniformed receptionist like a five-star hotel, I was impressed and knew right away why they didn't have many Arabians accept for endurance boarders.  This was a show barn establishment full of expensive warmbloods: Hanoverians, Dutch Warmbloods, Holsteiners, Oldenburgs, I even spotted some of what are now call Irish warmbloods (they're the ones with the really big heads).  I had asked to use the restroom before our ride and accidentally walked back into the wrong barn in the dark.  Oh shit, I'm in The Hamptons upgraded 10 fold, I thought.  For the first time in my life I was glad I had  joddies even if i didn't have boots. They are going to think I'm a know nothing tourist because I asked for an Arabian mount.

Front Desk

Boarders' Barn

Warmbood turned out in individual shaded yard.

Plenty of training space.

If a man doesn't make a fool of you a horse will and a fiery little rich colored chestnut waited  flashing the whites of his eyes in the stable lights.  "Is this my ride I asked?"  Expecting to see something much duller since they had no idea of my capability other than what I'd said.  Riding academies always ask if you can ride and always say most people answer yes but can't.  I used to ride racehorses but that was twenty years ago. Now I only throw my leg over to see if I still can when I'm on vacation.  The horses have to be well fed and cared for, I don't want something I feel sorry for.  This toey guy was just the right size and finally challenging enough to make me think I still had it, 'it' was in there somewhere and I would have to find it quick or look bloody silly.  I never liked falling off and would do just about anything to stay on.
As Roy Rogers said: "When you're young and fall off a horse you may break something, when you're my age you splatter."

Zachuess, my ride.

     
Zachuess, didn't like his rider to move her hands so Amin Khan, my guide and trainer said.  I found that out when I went to grab my phone from my pocket to take a picture of a burrow owl.  At the end of the ride Amin said most people don't like Zachuess because he spooks.  A friend had given him to the school.  He didn't have any problems I wouldn't have fixed in time when I was younger, a good horse with some head issues that's all, not bad.  I'll bet he can jump like stink but wouldn't like a polo mallet swung around him.  I let Zachuess have his head and kept my hands low on his withers.  He was gracious enough to tolerate my rusty skills for a long and vigorous sunrise dessert ride with just me and Amin, who appeared to be riding a thoroughbred.  Amin sat a horse beautifully and oozed experience.  He had been in the Indian army for 23 years before coming to the DPEC and I felt confident he could handle any situation. 

DPEC has two penned hotwalkering machines.

Equitation, show jumping, hunter-jumper types, and dressage horses made up the majority of boarders at the DPEC which housed over 300 horses, and 56 in the academy barn.  All had large, solid wall stalls I'm guessing 15x15, with air conditioning.  This seemed to be standard in Dubai as the horses at Meydan had the same.  There were also two international polo fields on the opposite side of the clubhouse surrounded by new exclusive homes being built.  How civilized, you can watch the polo from your own balcony.

Polo lessons available

New Homes Surrounding the Fields.

I have never seen an equine complex as luxurious as the DPEC.  The clubhouse is a traditional courtyard design sitting on 68 acres with its signature restaurant Palermo, overlooking the polo fields to the right.  On the left is Epona Lounge, another restaurant and bar with terrace where I had a fabulous brunch viewing the riding arena.  DPEC also has a Leisure and Fitness Center and can be booked for special events and dream weddings.  It was recommended to me by the desk staff at The Meydan Hotel and Racecourse and I knew I couldn't go wrong.  DPEC is a must see if you are visiting Dubai.

The Epona Lounge

Palermo Restaurant, outside

Their web address: www.poloclubdubai.com

 

 
     

A Visit to Meydan, Dubai

Last week I knocked off number one on my bucket list, Meydan Racecourse in Dubai.  I didn't get to attend the World Cup yet but January 9th was opening night of the DWC Carnival and I booked a parade ring seat.  The DWC, run in March, is the feature event of the season and the richest horse race in the world at $27.25 million; even the winning jockey gets a solid gold whip.  My lifetime favorite horse, Cigar was the first to win the cup when it started back in 1996 and many American horses have won it since including, Silver Charm, Captain Steve, Pleasantly Perfect, Roses in May, Electrocutionist, Curlin (another of my favorites), Well Armed and last years winner, Animal Kingdom (also on my favorites list).  That's 8 out of 18.
Everything is bigger, better, cleaner and safer in Dubai whether that sits well with you or not it just is.  The stunning architecture of the enormous grandstand bowls you over from the highway.  It is the biggest racetrack grandstand I have ever been in and has the recurring theme of a horse's head throughout.

 

Meydan is not very far from the city with a perfect view of the Dubai skyline that up close is an architectural wonderland.  Attached to the grandstand is my kind of hotel, the five-star Meydan, overlooking the track and an outside lounge track side.  It was from here I met a group for breakfast the Tuesday prior and did The Backstage Tour.  I love backstretch tours having done both Saratoga and Oklahoma (at Saratoga) last summer.  

The Meydan Hotel

On this one though we were allowed right into the barn of leading trainer, Musabah Al Muhairi, who could not have been nicer and gave us his personal attention.  He introduced some of his gorgeous chargers and showed us around the beautiful stable complex.  Then gave each of us a racing plate (shoe) to take home from his own farrier's shop.  A girl can never have too many shoes especially the lucky kind.  Musabah Al Muhairi had won four races the previous Thursday giving him the lead in the Champion Trainer title.  I think if I was young again and starting over I would go to Dubai instead of America.  Although it hasn't been all bad I never did learn about equine sports medicine and become a trainer which was my purpose of moving to the States.  Now that racing is not going forward here I would recommend Dubai as the place to be in the horse industry. 

Trainer, Musabah Al Muhairi

Grooms wait on their charges to come back from track work.

An Arabian racer bonding with staff.

A name plate outside a stall door

In the reflection is our guide Mark who also judged the best turned out horses on race night. 

Other barns on the backstretch

An Arabian Colt

Although thoroughbreds are my thing, I was really interested in seeing the Arabian racehorses Al Mahairi had as we don't have many of them here. Our racing seems to be getting sadder and sadder with more tracks that run Arabian races closing all the time.  In the United Arab Emirates there is no gambling. It really takes the pressure off and allows you to enjoy your evening. I got to meet people and I don't usually if I'm betting. To know they were there because they liked horse racing and not punting was uplifting. 

Andrew, (right) an attorney specialising
in equine law and  guest Antony Nobilo,
visiting from London

I was by myself but it didn't seem to matter. The frumpy shift I'd bought because I was concerned about the dress code was unnecessary, and no one mined me taking up space and only drinking tea.  You could have champagne it you wanted.  I drove to the track, parking was undercover and plentiful.  The only thing I noticed was the women stood on a different line to the men to get in, it was shorter too.  We were all handed cards for a pick six competition that had to be handed in before the first race as there were only seven.  I was so wrapped up in taking pictures of the sterling steeds in the parade ring at night that I forgot to shoot the fabulous lounge inside but I'd seen it all on the homestretch side of the tour during the day.

The Restaurant in the Jockeys' Room

The Parade Ring and Winner's Circle

A table beside the parade ring is best if you pick your horses on physically appearances as I do.  I didn't have to walk back and forth to the paddock like I do here and there was no trotting to the window so wearing  six inch spikes wasn't a problem.  All the action took place right in front of me, riders mount in the ring, but I was way back from the track for the finish.  A big screen took care of that and anyway, I don't always watch the race at home, seeing them before is important.

The Screens

Naseem, ridden by Harry Bently who won round one of the Group 1 Al Maktoum
Challenge for Purebred Arabians.  

Transparent, whose last form read Prx, my favorite track to play on Mon./Tue .
He ran 4th in  the Saint Imier won by Busker (USA).

You needn't feel threatened leaving the track at night alone in Dubai, there is no crime.  I could ask anybody anytime, anywhere for directions or help and they were very gracious.  It's a nice feeling for a woman not to be looking over her shoulder watching her back all the time.  Belmont and Aqueduct can attract a shady clientele most of the time, many under the influence of drugs, alcohol and mean from losing.  Even in Saratoga I don't go out after the Travers because town is too crazy and Louisville after the Kentucky Derby is the same; funny how our tracks are empty the rest of the year.

The Meydan Hotel desk staff found me a great stable to go for my Arabian desert ride, the totally amazing Dubai Polo and Equestrian Club which I'll go into more on another post. Our tour guide Mark Monkhouse, originally from Newmarket, England (another track ticked off my bucket list) sent me to HBA Horse Equipment store so I could buy jodhpurs.  I usually go riding in jeans and sometimes chaps.  I'm glad I invested in the jodhpurs because the DPEC was very upscale.  I also discovered another fascinating world I'll  go into later, The Falcon Heritage Club, where the tack store was located just down the road from Meydan.
I can't stop thinking about Dubai, there is so much to share about the trip and I can't say enough about how wonderful people were to me; an excitable traveler I can wear folks out.            
     

Ahtoug, winner on the second race, for thoroughbreds.

To do the Backstage tour at Meydan contact: leisure@meydanhotels.com or stabletours@meydanhotels.com  You can call +971 4 3813405

Another Intensive Bet Camp, at the Dogs.

Two wonderful days and nights at Palm Beach Kennel Club.  Since I can't go to the dogs or even bet on them in New York I take advantage of being Florida.  Saturday just happened to be a treat as I saw champion dogs, JS Speedypebbles and Rob Gronkowski (record holder) win their races.  Wow, Rob Gronkowski was the fastest thing I've ever seen flash past, he was amazing.  While my purpose this time was to work on photography skills I wasn't happy with  most of the shots.  I'm beginning to think if you can shoot racing dogs you can shoot anything and it might be years before I master the craft.

I thought handicapping dogs was easier than horses too until I met some people with between 35 to 45 years experience betting on greyhounds.  It turned out to be another intensive bet camp for me.  I don't exactly blend well at the track.  I left the camera back at the hotel for the evening races and picked up a coach, Kevin, with tons of knowledge.  Practice and schooling in analyzing information on the card can be overwhelming for a newbie like me.  Sixty races later I was just getting the hang of it when the evening wrapped up, but I thank my coach for a wealth of education and next time believe, like all gamblers, will be better.  Hopefully the photos will too.  The weekend at the dog track somehow cleared my head a bit as I noticed playing the last meeting at Finger Lakes (thoroughbreds) this Tuesday was easier.  The fog maybe lifting.  Handicapping is like anything else you need to do it all the time to get good at it.  Even if I'm not playing I still handicap the form like other people do crossword puzzles, just to hone my skills.

Turk, 45 years at the track, with friends.

  Jazzman.Gary, a regular at the track.

    

What I've Been Missing All These Years: The Dogs.

I'm beginning to think dog racing maybe more logical than horse racing.  As population grows and real estate becomes more expensive, taxes rise and development encroaches, horse farms are going to be less attractive to operate. Growing feed for horses also takes up a lot of land.  Dogs are considerably less expensive to keep and much easier to re-home once their racing careers are over.  Their life expectancy is less than horses and they can pretty much adapt to being pets in any home, experienced with dogs or not.  A horse is a bigger commitment and requires some knowledge of equine care.  An ex-racehorse isn't usually as gentle as a Shetland pony and  many have leg injuries that will bother them forever.  When a 1200 lb. horse falls in a race it is very often an ugly outcome.  Although dogs have wipe-outs too, unless they break their backs they can usually be saved.  Just compare the difference between a dog with a broken leg and what Barbaro went through.     

The greyhound racing industry is now working with rescue organization to find dogs coming off the track homes.  Greyhounds have as good or better chance of being adopted as any other dog due to their efforts. And greyhounds make great companions.  

Greyhound racing in many countries has serious problems of over-breeding, drugs and corruption, not to mention horrible methods used to dispose of dogs. From the few meeting I've been to in Florida and England I don't think the races could be fixed.  I'm a newbie but can pick 10 out of 15 winners, a few exactas and a couple of trifectas at a Florida meeting.  My first time out at Wimbledon dogs in England I picked 7 out of 10 winners and 3 exacta including a hurdle race just from reading the form.  If the races were fixed that would not be possible.  The favored drug in Australia is cocaine rubbed across the dogs gums right before it competes producing significant improvement in performance.  Caffeine is still used in places like Spain. There is no way a beginner like me could pick that many winners if doping was going on here.  

Betting on dogs is much easier than horses.  There are only 6 or 8 runners in a field depending which country you are in.  If a dog is scratched, which doesn't happen that often, there is no substitute dog added to the field so the trap stays empty and all dogs start from their assigned gate. There are no jockeys to make bad decisions in running so a dog runs on his own merit every time.  The grading system is simple and the fractions will tell you if a dog is fast out the traps and can stay out of trouble.  If an incident is going to happen dogs apparently bump or wipe out at the first turn.  For me the let down of a lose is somehow easier to shallow than at the Thoroughbred races because of the simplicity; they jump, they chase their very best and no one stops them.  Sure sometimes they bump each other but it's okay because it isn't any bodies fault. I can deal with that.

They are magnificent, and they chase because that is what they are born to do naturally, they are sight hounds. Their motivation for running is completely different to horses.  Horses are running away, dogs are chasing.  I wish I had gotten interested in dog racing years ago, I would have liked to train one.  All you need is a treadmill and a hydro pool, and to read, read, read greyhound racing books.  Educated trainers make better trainers.  I was always put off the dogs by people who thought the sport beneath them (my mother).  I enjoy them for the fine canine athletes they are and I don't care about impressing people anymore.  I do what I like because I really like what I do and I'm okay doing things by myself.  It's a sense of freedom that is as good as winning.  All I hope for is that greyhound racing will be cleaned up entirely world wide or closed down in countries that fail to comply with humane standards.  The animals are fabulous, they do love to run and their beauty in action makes me teary eyed.   

                           

(Photos by Annie Wade)

The Beauty of Greyhounds

No matter how you feel about racing you have to admire the beauty of a greyhound in top gear.  The perfection of a canine athlete, muscle and mind engaged in what comes naturally, chasing.

Hollywood Park Racetrack

                                (by Annie Wade November 21, 2013 during Betfair)
Hollywood Park Racetrack soon to be close forever and a shopping mall and houses built in its place. Spotting ovals from the air is a favorite thing of mine to do.  On approach to LAX just after you break through the clouds this is the view out of the right side of an aircraft.  When it's gone, the feeling will never be the same again.  Hollywood Park was the first track I ever went to in America 21 years ago.