Riding On Vacation: Langkawi, Malaysia and Cambodia

At Perdana Stables, Langkawi
with my guide Abu Ubaidah

Finding a good place to go riding on the road isn't difficult these days.  Horses are expensive to keep and as real estate prices rise dud establishments don't hang around long.  Although I don't own a horse myself anymore and only ride when on vacation, I like a quality mount.  It's not that I need the thrill of galloping full speed, it's just not fun if I feel bad for the horse and think I should be carrying him home.
If you have worked with horses professionally you know the kind of poor animals I mean.  You often see them on the beaches in places like Mexico, Costa Rica and the Caribbean.  They stand fully tacked-up in the sun all day waiting for overweight tourists with no experience to come along and gallop them as fast as they can go.  The horses are skinny and exhausted and return heaving with heart rates in the danger zone.  This is a distressing sight.
Recently I walked out of a resort where the horses were skin and bone.  They were kicking their feed bins at 8:00 am. in the morning and some pinned their ears as I approached.  They hadn't been fed and food obviously wasn't coming.  They were eating their own small, tight, hard droppings of manure.  The woman, an expat, who managed the barn said she has been away on vacation and blamed her staff of local guys for not taking care of the horses properly.  I was willing to bet she hadn't left a check for the feed merchant or anyone else before she left.  Telling her the horses were all in poor condition and I couldn't feature the stable on my blog wasn't easy.  Since I'd driven a long way out of town it was dissappointing but in my gut was glad I'd stood up and said no, it was the right thing to do and the first time it had happened to me.
For the reasons mentioned I am usually skeptical when I see any stable near a beach resort that offers trail rides.  The Perdana Stables, near Seven Wells Waterfall on Langkawi Island, Malaysia was not that kind of place and has nothing but well earned five star reviews on Tripadvisor.  A serious and professional, family run ranch, I was pleasantly surprised when I dropped in early one morning to check it out before booking anything.

Treadmill

There was a horse working at an incline on a treadmill being monitored by a young man.  You don't often see that at riding schools.  I walked to the back of the barn looking for the office telling stable hands I was interested in riding.  A handsome, fit man wearing a farriers apron directed me to the office.  I later learnt he was the owner and managing director, Muhammad Hamzah Abdulla.  Real horsemen shoe their own horses, and I was impressed.  Naturally I scoped out the condition of the horses on the way in.  A woman was giving a child a private lesson in a covered round yard.  I could tell everyone had been working in the barn for a couple of hours at least before I arrived, that's a good sign and I was ready to ride immediately. The young man, turned out to be the owner's son Abu Ubaidah, and had the treadmill horse in a wash bay when I came out.  He was reading its heart rate.  A big believer in heart rate monitoring, I was a fan already.
The Adulla's not only operate a purebred Arabian stud farm but compete internationally in endurance racing.

Heart Rate Monitor

Their Arabian Stallion

The barn had large airy stalls open to yards on the backside due to the hot, humid climate.  By the time I grabbed some cash from the car and signed the usual papers my mount was saddled.  I hadn't specifically asked for an Arabian because I was saving that for a Dubai dessert ride but this would have been the place. They gave me an Argentinian Criollo which was fine because I know the breed well from having managed strings of polo ponies.  I admire them greatly as they are long suffering and will take just about anything.  It was a pleasure looking after them in Indio, Palm Desert, California and in the Hamptons, Long Island.  The first work visa I obtained was as a polo groom and those horses taught me more than any others ever have. When there is only one of you and 7 of them in a string, you need to work together not at odds.  You soon learn their pecking order and how they think.  They teach you that whispering is not a pile of dung.  The Criolle, is much like the Australian stock horse so the leap wasn't too hard.  They get their sure-footedness from being born on the range and running with the herd until they're about three, developing lots of their natural instincts which is what makes them so good at polo. Unfortunately not many are handled by whispers and tend to shut off from people.  If you walk through the polo barns they usually pin their ears and turn their heads away having been mistreated.

The Polo Club Long Island, New York 1993

My ride Benga was nice.  Abu Ubaidah mounted an Arabian he used in endurance races and we set off through a little bit of jungle to the beach.  We came across some water buffalo foraging in thick but frightened them before I could get a picture.  Riding on the beach is the one thing I really miss about Australia as we used to train our thoroughbred racehorses on the beach; first galloping on the firm sand near the water and then swimming them to get some cardio work and cool off.  They would come out and flop down in the white sand to roll on a long lead, then jump up squealing and kicking, those were the best days of my life.

The day was hazy and the tourists not yet up so the beach was empty and great for riding.  Abu Ubaidah named after a companion to the prophet Muhammad, expressed a desire to compete in the United Arab Emirates one day as they are famous for endurance racing.  On January 11, Dubai hosted the HH Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum Endurance Cup, an event I regret not having stayed to see.

I recommend Perdana Stables: www.langkawi-islandhorses.com

On the trail ride at Perdana Stables

Riding In Cambodia
I wish now that I had known about The Happy Ranch Horse Farm in Siem Reap, Angkor, the Kingdom of Cambodia long before leaving for Langkawi.  I found their brochure late in my stay and they couldn't fit me in. I like to experience different local breeds such as an Andalusian in Spain, an Arabian in UAE and a Gypsy Cob I thoroughly enjoyed riding in Scotland.  Happy Ranch offers a regional type horse.  I'd never heard of a Cambodian horse or pony, as it is generally a small, hard working farm animal.  However on the "Breeds Currently Recorded On The Global Databank for Animal Genetic Resources "  Cambodia does show a horse but indicates having received no population data for the breed.  It is being crossed with bigger imported horses, supposedly some Arabians, and maybe at risk of being bred out.  The pony requires limiting the amount of weight carried and 'everyone wants a bigger horse,' for many tourists it is essential. The HRHF horses are between 13 to 15 hands high.

I didn't personally visit The Happy Ranch Horse Farm but these are pictures of the same type of horses which I saw at the ruins.  They look interesting and I love smaller horses.

The Happy Ranch trail ride journeys through rural villages, a great way to see the authentic Khmer lifestyle. Mr. Sary Pann started the ranch when he returned to Cambodia to retire.  He had escaped the Pol Pot regime and moved to California for 30 years where he developed a love for horses.
I never knew there was a Cambodian type of horse or even if it was a breed but I'm always pleased to see someone keeping a unique strain alive.  The horses looked well cared for in the brochure and websites and the trails offered sound simple marvelous: traditional villages, rice fields, lotus flower ponds and temple ruins away from the crowds of tourists.

 

Ankor Wat Ruins

I'm just glad to learn there is such a thing as a Cambodian horse.  The country has been a long time in recovery from civil war but well, well worth a visit.  If I ever get back I will be checking out HRHF first thing, it also has nothing but five star reviews on Tripadvisor.

The Happy Ranch Horse Farm: info@thehappyranch.com  Look it up on youtube too.
Pictures of the ruins.

Romantic Fascination with Arabian Horses: Riding in Dubai

Street Statue Dubai Creek

Bedouins called the first Arabian horse "Drinker of the Wind" and therein started the romantic legend. Arabians have been depicted as almost mythical creatures in paintings, stories and poems for centuries. The breed believed to be the foundation stock for all hotblooded types in the world made their way to distant shores mostly by way of war.  Renowned for his willingness to please humans and his small but dense skeletal strength the Arabian is valued today as an endurance, or long distance racehorse.  Ironically the finest qualities maybe his undoing as he is valued largely by those participating in one of the toughest of sports.

The Arabian with all his fiery spirit, courage and high carriage is not as popular as he once was in all equitation.  When I was learning to ride I was always told, 'it's not the horse's fault it's the rider's' and sadly I see where a much more agreeable natured steed has taken over the world of the performance horse, the warmblood.  They are wonderful and I like to watch them with their seductive toplines and steady gates bowing to the stillness of perfect riders, but they weren't around when I was growing up.  My first pony was a spirited, stubborn Welsh Mountain Pony with a mind of her own and a good pig root in her.   Then came the Anglo-Arabs, crossbreeds that are probably responsible for destroying the reputation of the trustworthy and reliable purebred Arab.  I believe the Arabian blood should never be mixed with any other horse because they are not of the same heart.  The thoroughbred is a good example having inherited most of the nutty traits and not enough brain.  Horses are great but how many can you ask to share your tent at night? The Bedouins knew what they were doing and from the end of that time the horses' journey has been pretty messed up.  There are more horse wackos out there than ever before. The Arabian needs understanding more than training but everything today is training, training and trainers because it's money, money and more money, and everyone wants a big horse.

An Arabian 

For my desert experience it had to be an Arabian which I didn't think would be an unusual request in an Arab country.  The travel brochures and websites all claimed to have exotic Arabians which I discovered turned out to be mostly Argentinian Criollos; an obliging, well mannered  horse that is tolerant and able to adjust to his rider's ability.  Once sort after as talented polo ponies this stock-horse type is sealing his fate as a safe trail hack all over the world and deserves much better.  None of the places I called had a purebred Arabian and I would have to settle for an Anglo Arab, unbelievable.  

My brother, Paul, had the dirtiest, meanest, fastest grey Anglo Arab pony jumper when we were kids. Shazar, liked to chase people out of his paddock.  He was a black skinned, smelly grey covered in scares with an attitude he had earned, and loved nothing more than to roll in mud.  Fearlessness was his fortitude and having come from a station I think he must have been crossed with a Brumby (wild horse).  He could go like the wind and tackled his fences at an angle you never see today, winning many pony jumper competitions.  When you where on his back he never stood still, weight in the saddle for him meant go.  Paul, soon reached an age where he was more interested in cars and girls that the show circuit and stuffy people. He said if I could ride his horses I could have them; and being raised in Australia with three older brothers who afforded a little sister the same status as the family cat, I said with hands on hips and a screwed up face: "I can do anything you can do better."  His Australian stock-horse, appropriately named Bucky, and his prized pony jumper became my challenges.  Neither horse thought of me as a threat because I was too small to get a bridle on them without standing on a bucket and they were both bad when it came to gearing up. They taught me persistence.  I have never met a horse I couldn't learn from.

Shazar

Entrance of the DPEC

When I arrived at the very upscale Dubai Polo and Equestrian Club that had and endurance and a front desk with uniformed receptionist like a five-star hotel, I was impressed and knew right away why they didn't have many Arabians accept for endurance boarders.  This was a show barn establishment full of expensive warmbloods: Hanoverians, Dutch Warmbloods, Holsteiners, Oldenburgs, I even spotted some of what are now call Irish warmbloods (they're the ones with the really big heads).  I had asked to use the restroom before our ride and accidentally walked back into the wrong barn in the dark.  Oh shit, I'm in The Hamptons upgraded 10 fold, I thought.  For the first time in my life I was glad I had  joddies even if i didn't have boots. They are going to think I'm a know nothing tourist because I asked for an Arabian mount.

Front Desk

Boarders' Barn

Warmbood turned out in individual shaded yard.

Plenty of training space.

If a man doesn't make a fool of you a horse will and a fiery little rich colored chestnut waited  flashing the whites of his eyes in the stable lights.  "Is this my ride I asked?"  Expecting to see something much duller since they had no idea of my capability other than what I'd said.  Riding academies always ask if you can ride and always say most people answer yes but can't.  I used to ride racehorses but that was twenty years ago. Now I only throw my leg over to see if I still can when I'm on vacation.  The horses have to be well fed and cared for, I don't want something I feel sorry for.  This toey guy was just the right size and finally challenging enough to make me think I still had it, 'it' was in there somewhere and I would have to find it quick or look bloody silly.  I never liked falling off and would do just about anything to stay on.
As Roy Rogers said: "When you're young and fall off a horse you may break something, when you're my age you splatter."

Zachuess, my ride.

     
Zachuess, didn't like his rider to move her hands so Amin Khan, my guide and trainer said.  I found that out when I went to grab my phone from my pocket to take a picture of a burrow owl.  At the end of the ride Amin said most people don't like Zachuess because he spooks.  A friend had given him to the school.  He didn't have any problems I wouldn't have fixed in time when I was younger, a good horse with some head issues that's all, not bad.  I'll bet he can jump like stink but wouldn't like a polo mallet swung around him.  I let Zachuess have his head and kept my hands low on his withers.  He was gracious enough to tolerate my rusty skills for a long and vigorous sunrise dessert ride with just me and Amin, who appeared to be riding a thoroughbred.  Amin sat a horse beautifully and oozed experience.  He had been in the Indian army for 23 years before coming to the DPEC and I felt confident he could handle any situation. 

DPEC has two penned hotwalkering machines.

Equitation, show jumping, hunter-jumper types, and dressage horses made up the majority of boarders at the DPEC which housed over 300 horses, and 56 in the academy barn.  All had large, solid wall stalls I'm guessing 15x15, with air conditioning.  This seemed to be standard in Dubai as the horses at Meydan had the same.  There were also two international polo fields on the opposite side of the clubhouse surrounded by new exclusive homes being built.  How civilized, you can watch the polo from your own balcony.

Polo lessons available

New Homes Surrounding the Fields.

I have never seen an equine complex as luxurious as the DPEC.  The clubhouse is a traditional courtyard design sitting on 68 acres with its signature restaurant Palermo, overlooking the polo fields to the right.  On the left is Epona Lounge, another restaurant and bar with terrace where I had a fabulous brunch viewing the riding arena.  DPEC also has a Leisure and Fitness Center and can be booked for special events and dream weddings.  It was recommended to me by the desk staff at The Meydan Hotel and Racecourse and I knew I couldn't go wrong.  DPEC is a must see if you are visiting Dubai.

The Epona Lounge

Palermo Restaurant, outside

Their web address: www.poloclubdubai.com

 

 
     

A Visit to Meydan, Dubai

Last week I knocked off number one on my bucket list, Meydan Racecourse in Dubai.  I didn't get to attend the World Cup yet but January 9th was opening night of the DWC Carnival and I booked a parade ring seat.  The DWC, run in March, is the feature event of the season and the richest horse race in the world at $27.25 million; even the winning jockey gets a solid gold whip.  My lifetime favorite horse, Cigar was the first to win the cup when it started back in 1996 and many American horses have won it since including, Silver Charm, Captain Steve, Pleasantly Perfect, Roses in May, Electrocutionist, Curlin (another of my favorites), Well Armed and last years winner, Animal Kingdom (also on my favorites list).  That's 8 out of 18.
Everything is bigger, better, cleaner and safer in Dubai whether that sits well with you or not it just is.  The stunning architecture of the enormous grandstand bowls you over from the highway.  It is the biggest racetrack grandstand I have ever been in and has the recurring theme of a horse's head throughout.

 

Meydan is not very far from the city with a perfect view of the Dubai skyline that up close is an architectural wonderland.  Attached to the grandstand is my kind of hotel, the five-star Meydan, overlooking the track and an outside lounge track side.  It was from here I met a group for breakfast the Tuesday prior and did The Backstage Tour.  I love backstretch tours having done both Saratoga and Oklahoma (at Saratoga) last summer.  

The Meydan Hotel

On this one though we were allowed right into the barn of leading trainer, Musabah Al Muhairi, who could not have been nicer and gave us his personal attention.  He introduced some of his gorgeous chargers and showed us around the beautiful stable complex.  Then gave each of us a racing plate (shoe) to take home from his own farrier's shop.  A girl can never have too many shoes especially the lucky kind.  Musabah Al Muhairi had won four races the previous Thursday giving him the lead in the Champion Trainer title.  I think if I was young again and starting over I would go to Dubai instead of America.  Although it hasn't been all bad I never did learn about equine sports medicine and become a trainer which was my purpose of moving to the States.  Now that racing is not going forward here I would recommend Dubai as the place to be in the horse industry. 

Trainer, Musabah Al Muhairi

Grooms wait on their charges to come back from track work.

An Arabian racer bonding with staff.

A name plate outside a stall door

In the reflection is our guide Mark who also judged the best turned out horses on race night. 

Other barns on the backstretch

An Arabian Colt

Although thoroughbreds are my thing, I was really interested in seeing the Arabian racehorses Al Mahairi had as we don't have many of them here. Our racing seems to be getting sadder and sadder with more tracks that run Arabian races closing all the time.  In the United Arab Emirates there is no gambling. It really takes the pressure off and allows you to enjoy your evening. I got to meet people and I don't usually if I'm betting. To know they were there because they liked horse racing and not punting was uplifting. 

Andrew, (right) an attorney specialising
in equine law and  guest Antony Nobilo,
visiting from London

I was by myself but it didn't seem to matter. The frumpy shift I'd bought because I was concerned about the dress code was unnecessary, and no one mined me taking up space and only drinking tea.  You could have champagne it you wanted.  I drove to the track, parking was undercover and plentiful.  The only thing I noticed was the women stood on a different line to the men to get in, it was shorter too.  We were all handed cards for a pick six competition that had to be handed in before the first race as there were only seven.  I was so wrapped up in taking pictures of the sterling steeds in the parade ring at night that I forgot to shoot the fabulous lounge inside but I'd seen it all on the homestretch side of the tour during the day.

The Restaurant in the Jockeys' Room

The Parade Ring and Winner's Circle

A table beside the parade ring is best if you pick your horses on physically appearances as I do.  I didn't have to walk back and forth to the paddock like I do here and there was no trotting to the window so wearing  six inch spikes wasn't a problem.  All the action took place right in front of me, riders mount in the ring, but I was way back from the track for the finish.  A big screen took care of that and anyway, I don't always watch the race at home, seeing them before is important.

The Screens

Naseem, ridden by Harry Bently who won round one of the Group 1 Al Maktoum
Challenge for Purebred Arabians.  

Transparent, whose last form read Prx, my favorite track to play on Mon./Tue .
He ran 4th in  the Saint Imier won by Busker (USA).

You needn't feel threatened leaving the track at night alone in Dubai, there is no crime.  I could ask anybody anytime, anywhere for directions or help and they were very gracious.  It's a nice feeling for a woman not to be looking over her shoulder watching her back all the time.  Belmont and Aqueduct can attract a shady clientele most of the time, many under the influence of drugs, alcohol and mean from losing.  Even in Saratoga I don't go out after the Travers because town is too crazy and Louisville after the Kentucky Derby is the same; funny how our tracks are empty the rest of the year.

The Meydan Hotel desk staff found me a great stable to go for my Arabian desert ride, the totally amazing Dubai Polo and Equestrian Club which I'll go into more on another post. Our tour guide Mark Monkhouse, originally from Newmarket, England (another track ticked off my bucket list) sent me to HBA Horse Equipment store so I could buy jodhpurs.  I usually go riding in jeans and sometimes chaps.  I'm glad I invested in the jodhpurs because the DPEC was very upscale.  I also discovered another fascinating world I'll  go into later, The Falcon Heritage Club, where the tack store was located just down the road from Meydan.
I can't stop thinking about Dubai, there is so much to share about the trip and I can't say enough about how wonderful people were to me; an excitable traveler I can wear folks out.            
     

Ahtoug, winner on the second race, for thoroughbreds.

To do the Backstage tour at Meydan contact: leisure@meydanhotels.com or stabletours@meydanhotels.com  You can call +971 4 3813405